Showing posts with label Andrew Jackson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Andrew Jackson. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Vacation, Day 3, 10/23/2009, Part 3

Updated to add--My Mama's name is Edna Earle, and one of Miss Welty's most popular characters is Edna Earle Ponder, from "The Ponder Heart." Neat-o!

Time to rejoin our vacation. I've decided to go straight to Miss Welty's home and leave downtown Jackson for the next post. It's just a couple of hours out of sequence, no big deal.

My photo of a photo of Miss Welty, hanging on the wall in the Visitor Center that is next door to her home. I don't know how old she is, nor do I know who took the photo. Nevertheless, I really do like this photo of her--it makes me feel that she understands much about life. She looks cool and collected, even though it appears she's sitting outside in the rocker on the porch at the side of the house. You'll see the photo I took of possibly the same rocker when you continue to read this post.
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How can I convey to you the import of my getting to visit Miss Welty's home?

You know how much I like to document every thing possible, so you may be surprised at what I'm about to say. I figured all along that no photographs would be allowed inside, so I hardly feel heartbroken at that eventuality. I've got my memories of the size of the rooms, of her beloved books everywhere, of the kitchen window that looks down over the backyard, of seeing her typewriter in her bedroom where she did most of her writing, of the art on the walls (including portraits of her parents), of the example of her editing method--the original cut and paste, let me tell you.

I did have the Nikon D50 in my purse, ready for when we walked through the side and back yards.

Here is the view of a wisteria arbor on the east side of the house, looking down into the backyard. Use your imagination and see delicate, pale purple and white blossoms hanging over your head. See in the distance the garden bench inside a second arbor. Imagine Miss Welty or her mother Chestina seated there on a lovely spring day.
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Here's the same arbor, looking up from the backyard. The company where my brother works, Iron Innovations of Clinton, Mississippi, made that lovely handrail. H told me that he measured for it and designed it according to their needs.
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Camellias abound in the side yard and outside the living room windows. I wonder what these buds look like now, over a month after I took this photo?
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Here's one a bit more open, so delicate.
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Miss Welty's bedroom windows, upstairs. The living room windows, downstairs.
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Here's the rocker--doesn't it look like the one in the photo of her, above? I'd love it if you'd have a seat in the rocker on her side porch. With your back to the camellias, relax and read the following review of my favorite Eudora Welty book, "Losing Battles." If you get a chance to read it, I'd love to hear what you think about it.
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From "The New York Times On the Web," the Books Section:

April 12, 1970
'I call this a reunion to remember, all!'
By JAMES BOATWRIGHT
LOSING BATTLES
By Eudora Welty.

In a bleak time, the career of Eudora Welty is instructive. Her dedication and artistic integrity, her clarity of vision, her persistence are altogether remarkable. Since 1936, when her first story was published, she has given us four books of stories, two novellas, a novel, several uncollected stories in The New Yorker over the past few years, and now "Losing Battles," a major work of the imagination and a gift to cause general rejoicing.

The gift is presented on April 13, Miss Welty's 61st birthday, and it appears before us with a liveliness and inventiveness which are almost unseemly. "Losing Battles" is conclusive evidence of what many have long believed: that Eudora Welty possesses the surest comic sense of any American writer alive. It is a comedy that takes no easy liberties, that presents character without fake compassion or amused condescension, a comedy that releases, illuminates, renews our own seeing, that moves in full knowledge of loss, bondage, panic and death.

The time of the novel is all day Sunday and Monday morning during a summer in the 1930's. The place is a farm and the nearby community of Banner in the hill country of northeast Mississippi. At the close of the chief event, a family reunion on Granny Vaughn's 90th birthday, Uncle Noah Webster Beecham says to Gloria, the wife of the hero Jack Renfro: "'Gloria, this has been a story on us all that will never be allowed to be forgotten. . . . Long after you're an old lady without much further stretch to go, sitting back in the same rocking chair Granny's got her little self in now, you'll be hearing it told to Lady May and all her hovering brood. How we brought Jack Renfro back safe from the pen! How you contrived to send a court judge up Banner Top and caused him to sit at our table and pass a night with the family, wife along with him. The story of Jack making it home through thick and thin and into Granny's arms for her biggest and last celebration--for so I have a notion it is--I call this a reunion to remember, all! . . Do you hear me, blessed sweethearts?' He swung over to Granny's chair and folded his arms around her, not letting go, begging for a kiss, not getting it.""

A critic would be rash to ignore such a convenient summary of the novel's action, but he would be equally rash to let it suffice. Uncle Noah is a participant, not an observer, and there is much he either doesn't hear or doesn't recount: the reported death of the schoolteacher who taught them all, Miss Julia Mortimer; tale after tale from the past, involving wretched suffering, murder, maiming, senility, madness, drowning, abandonment.

Uncle Noah's parting speech with its particular felicities and limitations does more than give a synopsis: it points toward the novel's meaning, which is both complex and elusive. Not that the reader will be in any hurry to get there. Even without close scrutiny, the book offers multiple pleasures: it is a joyous, rich, uproarious comic spectacle, teeming with brilliant characters, some introduced for a single scene. Its pulse of life is so strong that this alone may satisfy many a reader; the clearheaded, keenly observed, and loving portrayal of a family's life, a community's, in all its variety, quirkiness, energy.

But more is there than Uncle Noah's and the other voices say, and this brings us to a consideration of the telling of the story. Much of Miss Welty's earlier work, particularly the stories in "The Golden Apples" and "The Bride of the Innisfallen," displays an indirectness, a complexity, of style and narrative in which language, consciousness and event are so delicately manipulated that the story emerges as a kind of difficult and teasing poem; the mediating hand and voice of the creator are powers to reckon with.

"Losing Battles," in contrast, presents a surface of mock objectivity, mock simplicity; it is almost totally dramatic. The narrative offers itself, with a few significant exceptions, as pure dialogue, external event; there is no narrative voice to speak of, and except for one brief passage toward the end of the novel, when we are allowed into the mind of Vaughn, Jack's younger brother, we are denied reflection by any character.

This seems to me a radical and bold experiment in a relatively long novel; it is plausible and it works mainly because the world presented here is one virtually without silence. Someone is always talking and silence is suspicious, a wonder; it implies secrecy, guilt, pride, a rejection of communion, an affirmation of individuality.

In the single interior passage already referred to, Vaughn hears the sound of the night surrounding him: "As he plodded on through the racket, it rang behind him and was ahead of him too. It was all-present enough to spill over into voices, as everything, he was ready to believe now, threatened to do, the closer he might come to where something might happen. The night might turn into more and more voices, all telling it--bragging, lying, singing, pretending, protesting, swearing everything away--but telling it. Even after people gave up each other's company, said good-bye and went home, if there was one left, Vaughn Renfro, the world around him was still one huge, soul-defying reunion."

The concatenation of voices in the long day's reunion has literally defied more than one soul; it dares the soul to break the chain, to remain apart in its own mysteries. The voices seem to say: Here is your own home. Talk.

Gloria Renfro is one of those who won't talk, who try to preserve their mystery and separateness. Her mother-in-law says she has "a sweet voice when she deigns to use it, she's so spotless the sight of her hurts your eyes, she's so neat that once you've hidden her Bible, stolen her baby, put away her curl papers, and wished her writing tablet out of sight, you wouldn't find a trace of her in the company room, and she can be pretty. But you can't read her."

Gloria doesn't want to be read, to add her voice to this babel of voices, and this conflict is at the core of the novel and at the center of Miss Welty's vision. We are all double, at war in our own minds and hearts, and we are inescapably losers in these battles. Being fully human is being participant and observer, torn between our desires for love, safety, blind acceptance, communion, and our equally strong desires for separateness, danger, clear knowledge and individual and primal joy. The intricacies of our double nature have been explored by Miss Welty with the acutest sensibility before, and in "Losing Battles" that exploration yields its richest and most varied discovery.

Gloria is an orphan, of mysterious parentage, whom Miss Julia Mortimer has educated and prepared to follow in her own footsteps; Miss Julia herself is an outsider, an observer, a schoolteacher devoted to a universal, indiscriminate love and concern for her students, in a pitched battle with the ways of natural man, demanding perfection, clarity, knowledge. The announcement of Miss Julia's death is an embarrassment to the reunion; a perverse and serious warrior, she had plagued them when they were young, and she returns to plague them now, with her curse--"You fools--mourn me"--and her desire to be buried beneath the steps of the schoolhouse. Her last days were terrible; those she hadn't turned away no longer bothered to visit her, and death comes to her in the middle of the road as she wanders, mad. Judge Moody says of her ending, "The complete and utter mortification of life!" And those words must be accommodated in the golden romance of Jack and Gloria.

Gloria has chosen to devote all her teaching to one, to her beloved student Jack (which moved Miss Julia to mocking laughter). But Jack is caught in the flood of family, of history. Gloria is a novice in love, possessive and single-minded: "If it wasn't for all the other people around us, our life would be different this minute," and she pinpoints the trouble: "Home ties. Jack Renfro has got family piled all over him." Her impassioned battle cry is Save Jack!

How do you save a man who doesn't want saving, who finds the ties that bind a blessing, who implores Gloria to change her mind, to love his family? ("Not for all the tea in China," she responds.) Jack is a poet of relationship: "When he listened to Uncle Homer it was the same as when he listened to all his family--he leaned forward with his clear eyes fixed on the speaker as though what was now being said would never be said again or repeated by anybody else."

Like George of Miss Welty's "Delta Wedding," Jack is an example of the hero striving to be fully human; like George, he is an adept of love. ("Losing Battles" is similar to "Delta Wedding" in other ways as well.) Although Jack is young, he is already battle-scarred, and he carries out the orders of duty and desire with a keen moral intelligence and a full heart. After Gloria tells him that because of her love for him she has to hate everybody else, he asks that she spare the others some love. When she says she will pity them instead, "Don't pity anybody you could love," he whispers to her. She insists that she can safely pity Miss Julia. I reckon I even love her," said Jack. "I heard her story." Finally Gloria tells him that she gave up Miss Julia and all Miss Julia stood for, and she would willingly give up his family, all for him. He says, "Don't give anybody up. . . or leave anybody out. . . . There's room for everything, and time for everybody, if you take your day the way it comes along and try not to be much later than you can help."

All the other characters in this Breughel-like world are involved in and reflect this conflict, this mystery of love and relation--and the involvement flowers naturally, without a sense of strain or contrivance. Granny Vaughn addresses her dead husband and grandson as if they were present at the reunion; someone tells the story of Jack's grandparents, who one night fled from their children, their whole world of love and duty, and drowned in the Bywy River. (Why did they flee? "A deep question," "a story lost to time.") Bachelors, husbands, spinsters, wives, widows, children are all warriors; they gather on the porch as night falls, and from a distance we see, in the harsh glare of the porch light, their "caves of mouth and eyes opened wide, black with the lonesomeness and hilarity of survival."

But determined analysis of the mystery the characters inhabit may give too somber an impression of the novel. The overwhelming effect is comic--lyrical and touching, as in the counterpoint of voices heard as the household settles for sleep; funny and baffling, when the baby, Lady May, utters her very first words as a storm breaks over the house: "What you huntin', man?"; or joyous and redemptive, even in the midst of defeat, in the novel's last scene: Miss Julia Mortimer, against her wishes, is buried in Banner Cemetery, among the Comforts, Renfros and the rest, an outsider no longer; Jack suffers his final humiliation at the hands of the endearing villain Curly-- he's knocked out, his shirttail is cut off--and he trudges homeward with his wife, singing "Bringing in the Sheaves" for all Banner to hear, an appropriate coda to a beautiful and valuable novel.

Mr. Boatwright is editor of Shenandoah: The Washington and Lee University Review, which last spring published "A Tribute to Eudora Welty."

Friday, November 13, 2009

Vacation, Day 2, 10/22/2009, Part 1

If you looked at yesterday's blog, more than likely you guessed where we planned to go this morning, first thing--Cafe Du Monde.
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Well, I have to tell you that I never figured out the thermostat in our beautiful room, but we did have the ceiling fan and those fabulous high ceilings, so we all managed to get a good night's rest despite the humidity.

I felt so much better that I decided to get out my little laptop Honk and try to connect to the wireless. Hooray! I checked e-mail, cleaned out the junk, then downloaded the photos I'd taken on 10/21/2009 to the computer. Mama still had some energy although her arms and shoulders were sore from holding onto her walker for that long walk the night before. We three talked about our much shorter walk from the Place D'Armes Hotel on St. Ann to the Cafe Du Monde on Decatur--a mere tenth of a mile. That right there tells you why I picked that hotel. My main goal for our overnight in New Orleans was for Mama to be able to walk to the Cafe Du Monde and get herself some beignets and coffee without feeling like she was being a burden to anyone.
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Well, OK, I'll 'fess up--I wanted some beignets, too! My dearly departed husband LeRoy and I used to order the beignet mix and the coffee shipped to us in Kansas City. He'd been to New Orleans with several buddies back in the late '60's or early '70's. He fell hard for those two staples of the Cafe Du Monde. Sometimes on Sundays we'd load up our little LUV truck with our electric skillet, a bottle of Crisco or Wesson oil, his Chemex coffeemaker, some filters, the beignet mix and the coffee in the gold can. We were brunch-on-wheels for our best buds in KC. What good memories I'm having as a result of our being in New Orleans!

Check-out time at the Place D'Armes is 11 a.m., so we had to get a move on once we'd all finished our daily ablutions. As we walked through the courtyard I again marveled at the lush plants. I mean I see plenty of them up here in Portland, but these in New Orleans were so lovely. And the two climates are so different--it makes it all so interesting when you can witness for yourself those difference and then enjoy the similar outcomes.

Another portion of the courtyard
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Look at these ferns!
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While we walked and talked and watched out for uneven surfaces for each other, I planned to peel off when we came alongside Jackson Square so that I could take a few photos before we made it all the way to Cafe Du Monde.

Here's what I found on the Internet about the building we walked beside on St. Ann.

The Presbytere, taken from St. Ann Street, looking towards the cathedral and the Cabildo which is not visible at all in the photo.
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Flanking St. Louis Cathedral on either side are identical Spanish Colonial buildings. On the right (facing from Jackson Square) is the Presbytere, on the left the Cabildo. Both are massive, two-story stuccoed brick structures. The lower stories have wide porticos with semi-circular arches. They were designed by Gilberto Guillemard, a French architect serving in the Spanish military. Rear wings were added in 1840, and the French mansard roof (the third story) was added in 1847. Construction of both buildings, as well as the cathedral itself, was financed by Don Andres Almonester y Roxas.

Andrew Jackson in the center of Jackson Square--it looks like his hat is touching that crane. The building is the Cabildo which also houses part of the Louisiana State Museum.
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Construction of the Presbytere began first, in 1791. It was located on the site of the residence of the Capuchin monks, and was to become the Casa Curial (Ecclesiastical House), or Rectory, for St. Louis Cathedral. Construction stopped in 1798 and wasn’t completed until it was taken over by the wardens of St Louis Cathedral in 1813. The building never served its intended purpose – the diocese first rented the building as a courthouse, then finally sold it to the city in 1833. The city continued to use it as a courthouse, until 1911 when it was given to the state for use as a museum in conjunction with the Cabildo. The Presbytere became the natural science museum to complement the Cabildo’s role as a history museum.

Wow! That's some big looking sky! I quickly turned around and walked through the gate, out onto the sidewalk along Decatur where you can always find carriages for hire.
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I quickly turned around and walked through the gate, out onto the sidewalk along Decatur where you can always find carriages for hire. I'm guessing here's one on its way back to where it began.
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We're close now! I can smell the beignets!
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Cafe Du Monde, from their Web site:
History
The Original Cafe Du Monde Coffee Stand was established in 1862 in the New Orleans French Market. The Cafe is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It closes only on Christmas Day and on the day an occasional Hurricane passes too close to New Orleans.

The Original Cafe Du Monde is a traditional coffee shop. Its menu consists of dark roasted Coffee and Chicory, Beignets, White and Chocolate Milk, and fresh squeezed Orange Juice. The coffee is served Black or Au Lait. Au Lait means that it is mixed half and half with hot milk. Beignets are square French -style doughnuts, lavishly covered with powdered sugar. In 1988 Iced Coffee was introduced to the cafe. Soft drinks also made their debut that year.

I drank fresh-squeezed orange juice, well after I'd finished my three beignets. I didn't want any clash of tastes going on in my mouth, nope.

Beignets
Beignets were also brought to Louisiana by the Acadians. These were fried fritters, sometimes filled with fruit. Today, the beignet is a square piece of dough, fried and covered with powdered sugar. They are served in orders of three.

Before we crossed the street, I turned around and took this shot. I like it because I can almost see women and men from yesteryear, strolling along. Since it was about 9 a.m., not much was happening right then, but I still like the perspective on the photo.
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Here's that same carriage, just after it passed us at the intersection. Some day I'll go back to New Orleans and ride in one of these--that's good goal to have. Plus my friend Michelle e-mailed today to tell me about the Carousel Bar and Lounge in the Hotel Monteleone (there's a photo of it in yesterday's post). The bar revolves and overlooks Royal. That's another good goal to have, to don my motion sickness bracelets and have a seat at the bar!
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Here we are, pre-beignet-clean. If you've never eanted one of them, you don't know what I'm talking about--sorry. Every time you take a bite, powdered sugar flies. Naturally it lands all over the place. I put the camera away before I took the first bite.
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This man entertained everyone, singing and playing his trumpet and testifying for the Lord. I made sure to leave him a tip--he was pretty good.
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While Mama finished her last beignet, Kay walked down Decatur, in search of fresh fruit at the market. I walked up onto the levee to take photos.

The Mississippi River curves here. I don't know if you can tell it or not in this quickly snapped shot. Back when my sons were in elementary school we rode a paddle wheeler on the river--it was a memorable but short trip. The calliope was so loud!
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That might be the very boat, there with the two black smokestacks and the Natchez on its side. That green roof is on the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas, another great place to visit in New Orleans. The gift shop there is where I believe I saw George Clinton shopping the rubber sharks. If it wasn't him, it was his double!
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We walked back to the hotel. I got Mama to wait in the lobby and got one of the hotel's nice employees to come get our luggage. Kay came back, disappointed in the fruit selection and ready to hit the road for her home in south Mississippi.
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Last, two sort of iconic French Quarter photos.

The wrought iron, the narrow street.
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Finally a blue sky to add to the beauty of St. Louis Cathedral.
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